P.J. Clarke's Revamped Burger Leaves Me Longing for the Old
P.J. Clarke's
915 3rd Ave, New York, NY 10022 (at 55th St; map); 212-317-1616; pjclarkes.com
Short Order: A once great hamburger neutered by changing it to "natural" beef and a fancy bun—a change no one asked for, and after tasting one that no one will want.
Want Fries with That? Yes; here at least the touch of a world class chef makes a difference.
Price: Cheeseburger, $10
Back in 1985 the Coca Cola Company, facing a decline in market share, decided to change the recipe of their eponymous beverage. At the time it appeared to be a colossal mistake. Despite some initially positive reaction, there was such a backlash that the company reintroduced the original formula, now dubbed "Coca Cola Classic," just three months after the launch of what became known as Coke II. Coca Cola learned a couple of lessons with the move. First, they realized that they needed to worry about the customers that they had before trying to gain new ones. Second, the realized that Coke had become a cherished institution—some saw changing the formula as heretical as changing the colors on the flag. But most importantly they proved the age old idiom: If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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