The art of Kevin Blythe Sampson

THE ART OF
KEVIN BLYTHE SAMPSON

3/18/10

Serious Eats: New York - The New York City Food and Restaurant Blog

YC Food Events For the Weekend (And Beyond)

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Burger and fries from DuMont, one of over 50 restaurants featured at Village Voice's Choice Eats. [Photograph: Robyn Lee]

P.S. 3 Auction
Saturday, March 20, 7:00 pm-10:00 pm
Zak Pelaccio from Fatty Crab, Jason Denton from Corsino, Seamus Mullen from Boqueria, and other chefs cook to raise money for P.S. 3's arts programs.
Bites and an open bar by Fatty Crab, Little Branch, Employees Only, Cabrito, Corsino, 10 Downing, and more. Dessert by Spoon and bon bons by Roni-Sue's. $35 in advance, $40 at the door. P.S. 3, 490 Hudson Street (between Christopher and Grove Streets); event website.

Cochon 555
Sunday, March 21, 4:00 pm-8:00 pm
This culinary event features five New York chefs (Mark Ladner from Del Posto, Marco Canora from Hearth, Adam Kaye from Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Gavin Kaysen from Café Boulud, Corwin Kave from Fatty 'Cue). Each chef will prepare a 125-pound heritage pig for this ultimate cook-off, vying to be named the "Prince of Porc." $125. Pier Sixty, Chelsea Piers Entertainment Complex, West 23rd Street at the Hudson River; 404-849-3569; event website.

Choice Eats
Monday, March 22, 6:30 pm-9:30 pm
The annual Village Voice tasting event is back, with samplings from over fifty restaurants. Beverages and "other surprises" are included in the ticket price. $45. The 69th Armory, 68 Lexington Avenue (between 25th and 26th Streets);
event website.

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Sugar Rush: Cornmeal-Apricot Cookies

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[Photo: Kathy YL Chan]

Remember these flourless chocolate cookies from Northern Spy Food Co? One of the best cookie deals in town, three for $3. Well, take note, this East Village neighborhood spot has recently started packaging all their cookies (not just the chocolate ones) for sale at the same price. Previously the cookies, were only attainable via an order of the signature Cookie Plate, but now they're neatly packaged to go. This includes the Cornmeal-Apricot cookies, puffy crunchy wonders dotted in cornmeal and kept moist with chopped apricots.

Related:
Northern Spy's Flourless Chocolate Cookies

Northern Spy Food Co.

511 East 12th Street, New York NY 10009 (map)
212-228-5100
northernspyfoodco.com

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The Art of the Lunch Deal: SHO: Shaun Hergatt

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SHO: Shaun Hergatt

40 Broad Street, 2nd floor, New York NY 10004; map); 212-809-3993; shoshaunhergatt.com
Service: First class, effusive and precise
Compare to: Bouley, Corton, Eleven Madison Park
Cost: 3-course lunch prix fixe, $30

"You're standing in a fire wall!" barked the officer with the bomb-sniffing dog. Jaywalking is not usually an issue in New York, but on Broad Street, you should probably stick to the sidewalks. I was attempting to get to SHO: Shaun Hergatt, located in the heart of the Financial District, behind police cordons and scaffolds. It is as awkward a restaurant to get to as it is to pronounce—and a little too far south for many fine diners to consider. (It really doesn't help that you can't pull up to the front in your limousine.)

If the restaurant was located in Midtown, it might garner a little more attention, which I think it deserves. Shaun Hergatt is a talented chef, and while his rococo expressions (and indeed the room) might hearken to a more gilded age, the menu has evolved since SHO opened last year—and has been influenced, in a positive way, by the seasonal, local zeitgeist of the times.

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It's an unabashed fine dining restaurant, with doting service and crisp white tablecloths. Hergatt is classically trained, but incorporates Asian flavors in to his cooking. The decor is a fusion of sorts as well—it looks like a high-end opium den, with its red walls and quasi-tribal accents. (If the Samurai armor featured in Tim Burton's interpretation of Batman (1989) were a restaurant, this would be it.)

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Video: How to Butcher and Cook a Rabbit

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Sean Rembold, the executive chef of Marlow & Sons in Williamsburg, assures you that butchering a rabbit shouldn't be too tough—it's kind of like butchering a chicken. In these two videos from documentarian Liza de Guia's Food Curated, Rembold goes through the steps of taking apart the animal, then makes a sizzling pan of rabbit cacciatore (essentially just coq au vin with rabbit). The deeper golden-brown you can get the meat, the better the flavor. And what to do with the rabbit's head? Make the world's tiniest batch of head cheese of course! Watch the videos, after the jump.

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CSA Help

A Sandwich a Day: Saltie's Clean Slate

In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.

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[Photo: Kathy Chan]

They call it the Clean Slate ($8) at Saltie in Williamsburg. And sometimes that's what you need after one too many days of greasy chicken parms and burgers. Warm housemade naan is warmed and smothered with hummus, quinoa, and matchstick-cut pickled beets. To finish, yogurt, a handful of shaved fennel, parsley and toasted sesame seeds. A colorful affair, to say the least! The sandwich is served open-faced, but I prefer to fold and eat—both hands, straight up. So much more satisfying.

Saltie

378 Metropolitan Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11211 (map)
718-387-4777
saltieny.com

From Slice

Fornino Pizzeria Opening in Park Slope

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This photo is dated and the scaffolding is gone, but the former Tempo space is to the left, just under the plywood. My guess is that the Fornino "in-house store" might occupy the Tempo Presto space to the right. [Photograph: Google Maps]

Word comes this morning via the Village Voice/Fork in the Road that Williamsburg's Fornino is opening a location in Park Slope. It'll be on Fifth Avenue between Carroll and Garfield streets. If you're familiar with the area, it's in the space that was most recently Tempo.

It's a return to the neighborhood—and the space—for Fornino owner Michael Ayoub. He opened Cucina at the same address in 1990, long before Fifth Avenue was the gentrified restaurant row that it is now. According to the Voice, "There will also be an in-house store selling prepared foods, as well as homemade cheeses, pastas, and sauces. There will also be delivery."

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Meet & Eat: Scott Gold, Author of The Shameless Carnivore

"After attempting to eat 31 animals in 31 days, I eat less meat now than I did before."

Scott Gold has channeled a lifetime passion for food into a writing career. His first book, The Shameless Carnivore, is a delightful and entertaining read, describing not only Scott's quest to eat thirty-one different animals in thirty-one days, but also his "tour de boeuf," a culinary journey from one end of a cow to the other. Scott is a quintessential Serious Eater, and we're happy he was able to take some time to answer a few of our questions.

Name: Scott Gold
Location: Greenpoint
Occupation: Author of The Shameless Carnivore, Bartender at Char No. 4
Website: shamelesscarnivore.com

How did growing up in New Orleans shape you into the food-lover you are today? New Orleans is one of those rare places in which everybody, from the sidewalk dancers to nationally famous restaurateurs, cares deeply about food. Wanting to eat well isn't seen as something pretentious or effete; it's just the way we live. I don't think I ever heard the word "foodie" until I left New Orleans; if you're a New Orleanian, it's assumed that you enjoy eating and drinking the tastier things in life. So when I began writing nonfiction, food was an obvious choice. It's good to write about what you love, and boy howdy, do I love food.

How did your book, The Shameless Carnivore, come to be? I was working in book publishing for a number of years, and a good friend of mine, an editor, came up with the idea during lunch with my (now) literary agent. They said, "Hey, someone should write a carnivore's polemic!" They dropped that one sentence pitch in my lap—knowing about my fondness for flesh—and I ran with it. As soon as I started working on the proposal, the passion just poured onto the page like gravy on a roast beef po-boy.

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Smörgåsboard: Arrollado Primavera, Meatloaf Sandwich

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[Photo: Eating in Translation]

  • Arrollado primavera at at La Nueva Bakery: "Ham and cheese, hearts of palm, and hardboiled egg... surely this must be a savory snack. Surprise!" [Eating in Translation]
  • Honey butter and jalapeño-bacon cornbread at Char No. 4: "I would do anything, ANYTHING for more." [Eat to Blog]
  • Meatloaf, mashed potato, gravy and cheddar sandwich at Press 195: "Hot damn, that was one damn good sammy!" [Feisty Foodie]
  • Bavette cacio e pepe at Lupa: "Silky, smooth, creamy, but with a bit of a bite." [Queenie Takes Manhattan]

New York City Legalizes Beekeeping

Here comes the honey!

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Megan Paska shows off her honey. [Photographs: Eric Tourneret]

Amateur beekeepers and honey junkies alike were given cause to celebrate yesterday after the New York City's Board of Health voted to overturn a ban on beekeeping in the five boroughs.

The decision was cheered by beekeeping groups and their members, who have been lobbying the City Council and the Department of Health and Mental Hygiene to remove bees from a list that prohibits the possession of certain "wild animals" and "venomous insects."

For many years until this point, hundreds of urban apiculturists had been operating covertly in New York City, living in fear of having their hives discovered and getting slapped with fines ranging from $200 upwards to $2,000. But now that beekeeping has moved out of the shadows we can expect an influx of hyper-local honey for NYC residents.

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Sugar Rush: Honey Cake by Bee Desserts

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[Photo: Kathy Chan]

These honey cakes ($4) baked by Bee Desserts in the West Village have quickly become a favorite of mine. Coated in a crackly thin shell of dark chocolate, the cakes have not a grain of sugar, but instead have honey as the key sweetener. Ingredients are straightforward: mainly wheat flour, milk, honey, condensed milk, chocolate, and spices.

The cakes come in four flavors: original, marshmallow, honey, and Cognac. Slightly larger than, say, a Ding-Dong, and very moist, each cake is wrapped in shiny foil and given its own little box. Ideal for little gifts, they present quite nicely. Slice the cake in half to reveal the crumb, golden and tender, with every pore oozing sweet honey. At room temperature it practically drips honey, though it's equally wonderful when served very cold for a slightly firmer texture. Pictured above is the marshmallow version—see that thin layer of marshmallow, all melty and gooey, between the cake and chocolate? Be still, my heart!

Bee Desserts

94 Greenwich Avenue, New York NY 10011 (map)
212-366-6110
beedesserts.com

Special

Today's Specials

Sandwiched at the Whitney: Chefs, Lunch, Art, and You

I was fascinated when I heard that Danny Meyer's Union Square Hospitality Group was going to open a sandwich joint in the Whitney Museum, featuring items designed by its chefs and pastry chefs. Why? Because it raised so many questions. First among them: Are chefs necessarily the best sandwich architects? We ate our way through the menu to find out.
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The Meatball Shop: Food Destination Or One-Trick Pony? »

The Art of the Lunch Deal: Convivio »

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