The art of Kevin Blythe Sampson

THE ART OF
KEVIN BLYTHE SAMPSON

2/11/10

Serious Eats: Eating Out

From Serious Eats: New York

The Brunch Dish: Irish Back Bacon and Goat Cheese Sandwich at Wilfie & Nell

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[Photos: Nikki Goldstein]

Joaquin Baca's brunch at Brooklyn Star is one of my all-time favorites in the city, so when I heard that he was designing the new brunch menu at the much-loved West Village bar, Wilfie and Nell, I got a little excited. After giving them a few weeks to work things out, I checked in to see how the short menu stacked up, and tried the Irish Back Bacon & Goat Cheese Sandwich with a side of Soda Bread.

I found mixed results. For starters, brunch at a bar is not like brunch at a restaurant. There are tables and waitresses, sure, but they don't have the capacity to make a cappuccino, and had a limited quantity of spoons that I could use to stir my drip coffee (that all those spoons were in the dishwasher when I ordered was a strange surprise). But when the food arrived, things seemed to look up.

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Killer Croquetas at Pasha in Chicago

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[Photograph: Michael Nagrant]

After a reviewing food for a few years I've adopted a few rules to live by, many postulated by others, but definitely confirmed by experience:

  • Never order sushi on Monday.
  • If I'm the only white dude in a Chinese restaurant, I'm probably in a good spot.
  • If a restaurant has a number in its name, it probably sucks.
  • Spectacular views = spectacularly mediocre food.
  • If a restaurant has more flat screens than a Best Buy showroom, they also have food on par with the vending machines near the Best Buy employee break room.

One axiom I've been thinking about adding to the list is that if a restaurant hosts live music regularly, you should order take out or stop for a bite before attending the show.

Because this rule was still in the consideration phase, I checked out Pasha, a restaurant in Chicago's West Loop owned by the popular local world music band, Veerasway and Red Light nearby if things got out of order.

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